Top Three: Paris Men’s Fashion Week – Fall 2013
As per usual, the lineup at Paris Men’s Fashion Week did not disappoint and showcased the top menswear designers and brands, as well as their collections for the Fall of 2013. Much like last October’s Paris Fashion Week, the buzz was all about Hedi Slimane and his debut men’s collection for Saint Laurent Paris. However, Slimane failed to achieve something memorable like he did with his women’s collection in October. It was extremely surprising to most critics, who credit Slimane for revolutionizing menswear and creating the “slim silhouette” while he was at Dior Homme for 7 years. Fortunately, Slimane has set the bar so high that this won’t matter in the long run.
There were numerous impressive collections from Paris, most notably Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Maison Martin Margiela and Calvin Klein, but 3 designers stood out due to their timeless designs and classic aesthetic. These three represented “True Success”, “Above The Rest” and “The Effortless”.
1. Raf Simons – “True Success”
When a designer takes on the task of trying to redefine the classic menswear silhouette, which has worked so successfully for the past 6-8 years, most people would be skeptical of the results. However, when the legendary Raf Simons takes on this task, people take notice. And that is precisely what Simons did for his signature line for the Fall of 2013, which included a looser fit in the clothing, collars pointing upwards, and shirt cuffs unbuttoned. In addition, the angular tie on the throat of the jackets added a new element that questioned the norm of a menswear staple. Simons is obviously trying to stretch out the definitions that other designers have created in regards to menswear but it is not done hastily and without any reason. True success, indeed.
2. Dior Homme – “Above The Rest”
There are certain things that fashion designers were born to do and menswear is precisely one of those things for Kris Van Assche. Time and time again, he has been able to not only stay consistent, but also transform his aesthetic. For this season, Van Assche wanted to design for “tomorrow” and his collection included technical fabrics, as well as a conservative palette and silhouette. Certain details, such as zippered-down suit jackets and unique insignias offered more questions than answers, which was apparently the goal, according to Van Assche. “You’re supposed to ask,” said the designer. Sometimes, the questions end up being more important than the answers.
3. Givenchy – “The Effortless”
For this season, Riccardo Tisci wanted to challenge himself. The legendary designer has already created somewhat of a street-wear meets high-fashion uniform consisting of graphic tees and sweaters featuring rottweilers and sharks for every fashion-forward celebrity in the world. Therefore, he wanted to offer them something more refined and more chic with his Fall 2013 collection, which consisted of cashmere, velvet and leather fabrics mixed with an athletic fit. Tisci proved why he’s one of the top menswear designers with this collection and showed off his design strengths: monochrome palettes, icons, and dark imagery. It’s no wonder that the young generation gravitates towards him.